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Evan, Mark Jenna, Celia, Kelly, Lou, Lauren, Chris, Kevin,
Me, Heather, and Sarah,
Trainees in our Halloween costumes |
Happy Halloween! Today is a national holiday All Saints Day here in the Philippines where family members go to cemeteries to pay respect to ancestors, clean tombstones, and pray that their souls are resting in peace. My family does this on the Chinese 'all saints day'.
As usual, my tenth week in country was exciting, busy and culture filled. I had my usual four hours of language class each day last week, and my afternoons were filled with planning for a community project for the local development compound. There was also swimming in the rain, my first mcdonalds meal in a year, a going away party at Mark's house, a fiesta, karaoke, and the barangay captain's 50th birthday party.
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Trainees with the Captain for his golden birthday.
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| Our two day Youth Camp last Saturday |
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Now, this week is the last week of training, and next week all trainees and trainers will be flying back to Manila for our last conference of pre-service training (PST - have I mentioned that PC loves abbreviations? OMG). I'll be busy with closing up shop here at our training site. Wednesday, I'm packing up my stuff to move to my new host family that is 20 minutes away in Tacloban City. Saturday, is our big thank you party for all the host families who have taken care of us trainees. Somewhere in between I want to check out the rock climbing gym in my city (Yes, I almost pee'd my pants when I heard there was a climbing gym). Then, Sunday we fly out to Manila. Busy, Busy.
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Community Project of life skills & self expression.
Here they're making masks to share about themselves. |
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| Mark with the manas at his going away party yesterday. |
"more words, more mistakes"
I also need to study to pass my language test on Thursday (!) and it's quite overwhelming to learn a language in full force over 10 weeks. Learning Waray-Waray (no, I am not learning Tagalog) is challenging. I believe that a language really does reflect a culture and some of its values.
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Chris, Mark, Jenna.
A typical break from class on the porch.
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As my host sister, Yen, said last night as we were studying at the dinning table "more words, more mistakes". This was in reply to my sentence that was too long and complicated; when there was a very simple short way to express the same sentence. Meaning: keep it simple and short (KISS). This reflects Filipino culture so well 'cause often most people communicate through body language and facial expressions. If someone raises their eyebrows at you that means 'yes', 'hello', 'i got it', and so on. Although, each day I find polarity in this culture. Usually there are often few words spoken, but people are also fond of chicka-chicka (information, that can quickly become gossip), so behind closed doors there are often many words passed around.
What are some polarities in American culture?
RIP Baboy
Baboy means pig. Saturday night we had a Halloween party and my friend Kelly decided to make lechon! Lechon is a fully roasted big and Kelly gave us all the cultural experience of buying, killing, skinning, gutting, and roasting the pig on a bamboo stick. (Uncle Tony, please forgive!)
I couldn't bring myself to help in the making of the lechon, but I volunteered to be 'event photographer'. It was bloody and grueling. There were parts I wanted to look away, and there were moments was I fascinated at the anatomy of the animal. Most of the time I tried to keep the camera up and shooting. Here are some of the less detailed pictures. I have many more if you're curious to see.
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As the pig's squeals began neighbors from the barangay
filled the small yard we were all standing in, despite the rain. |
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| I asked if he said a prayer before he began. He did. |
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| It was the first time for some of the Filipinos to see the process themselves, young and old. |
I eat meat, and I have respect for those who choose to be vegan/vegetarian. I also have respect for people who can butcher their own meat, and especially if they raise a sustainable farm. There is something to be said for full circle gratitude and connection between life and death (yes, obviously debatable). Besides, it was definitely a cultural experience to see how the locals make their favorite dish for all big parties. Any wedding, death anniversary, fiestas, can be found with a fully roasted pig, lechon.
Cocks Out - Bulang!
This week in language class we read a few 'culture notes' on cock fighting. I mentioned this over dinner to my host tatay, and it was on the schedule for Sunday afternoon. Similar to making lechon, it's a complex practice and process of animals' roles in culture. My host dad, host sister and I piled into a motorized tricycle and headed to the next town over as the rain softly came down through the side opening of the seats. We pulled into the muddy lot and saw the small arena.
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| Tickets to get into the cock pit. |
I instantly felt out of place since the only other women there were selling entry tickets at the window, and tending to their produce for sale outside the fences. There was a pit adjacent to the arena where, I assume, men were warming up their competing cocks or investigating potential winning cocks. Men were also milling around, taking shelter from the rain, and smoking in the area.
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| The Cock Pit. |
We walked in just as two cocks were ending their battle, and found three vacant plastic seats nailed to the cement ground. The noise in the pit moved through waves of silence and shouting as rounds of cocks were thrown in to peck to their death. There was something eerily parallel between the men screaming their bets to the many bookies and the cocks fluttering and fighting for the territory that they were thrown into.
The Kristo or bookies are impressive. Through the dozens of rounds of cock fights bets are flying through the air through screaming and hand gestures, and they remember every single winning/loosing bet without ever writing anything down. To quote my culture notes "because he hardly makes a mistake, people trust him, even if he may have no formal education".
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| Kristos shouting "this side! this side!" to get bets in. |
It's not just gambling - it's a sport. Men put time and energy into raising their cocks. There is also a referee or 'sentenciador' to ensure there is a winning and loosing cock, since there are bets on the line draws are not acceptable.
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| The sentenciador watching to declare the winner. |
The Tigbulang are the men who own and bet their cocks into the fights. Each round was preceded by a ritual where the cocks were taunted at one another, and each side had its competing cock and a second cock that was used to entice and anger the fighting one through aggravating pecks and tosses.
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A Tigbulang with his rooster.
They really care for them and tame them. |
I doubt I'll be raising or betting on any more cocks soon (I made one small bet, and lost). Overall a worthwhile cultural experience. One of the most liberating concepts of the cock pit is that anyone can go, and just about anyone from any social strata does goes. To quote my notes again "it breathes the air of equality". In a country where the discrepancy of haves and have-nots is apparent each day, it's refreshing to go somewhere where anyone with some cash in their pockets can go for hope, entertainment, yelling, and an equal chance to loose their lunch money.
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This is the rooster that I loathe. He lives outside my window. He likes to sing to me at all hours of the night.
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Every beginning has its ending...
Being the last week of training I've been doing some reflecting on how I feel to be here with just two weeks left before I swear in as a real volunteer. I'm really excited and happy. However, the longer I'm here the more distant home in California seems. This makes me sad. I've had moments looking through photos of family and I keep hearing about all the new babies on the way. I'm worried that friends and family at home will stop caring, and I know it's irrational 'cause good friends are always there for you, and family, well, you all have to love me =).
One interesting factor is that, I've been somewhat of a nomad for the last two years after graduation. So, for most of my close friends and family me being gone is familiar, but for me it'll be the longest I've been away! Yet, still the longest stretch of time I've been in one place without traveling. Another curious dichotomy.
Each day that goes by, I'm building deeper relationships with the people around me. I'm excited about my work and the experiences I keep having. I just hope I'm still excited when the novelty wears off. I hope I can remember why I wanted to come to this place when things get difficult. Either way, it's starting to feel real: I'm living here for two years, learning about Filipino culture, sharing Chinese-American culture, and hopefully, I can help improve the lives of some of the children and youth. Word.
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Yen, my host sis and master mind behind my costume "Ms. Philippines, Major Major Mistake" |
It's my first Christmas away from home. Mail me a card to remind me of home. It'll take weeks to get here.
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